a post to keep blog active

a post to keep blog active

another entry just to keep site alive

yes still here

The Passion of The Christ

Went to see The Passion of Christ in the central city Kaohsiung. Its The Thursday of Easter. Its a country with few Christians. The theatre is huge as is the screen. There are about 15 other people at the 10 pm session.

Dreadful film. No saving graces, no redeeming features. (all puns intended). It seems like a simple violent film made by a simple violent person that might appeal to simple violent people.

Dont believe me? Read these three reviews in The Guardian

Oh I forgot to mention Gibson's father is a great mate of Frederick Tobin the notorious Australian based Holocaust denier from the Adelaide Institute. I understand Gibson is bankrolling Tobin's tour of USA. See picture of Tobin with old man Gibson.

Road Rules

I'm sure there are some road rules - in fact I saw a few in the paper. Baby seats are to become compulsory.

The rules I can see from observation:
Traffic lights are sort of optional advisory.
Scooters do not have to obey any rules. Includes one way streets. Plenty of scooters also drive down wrong side of road.

If on a scooter and approaching a red light - one should slow down - in case another driver is silly enough to stop at the light. Generally buses and trucks and most cars will stop at a red light.
Scooter should proceed straight through. unlike in OZ DO NOT try to engage other drivers or walkers eyes contact , just put head down and proceed with purpose. I think the secret is proceed with purpose and be preprad to go around anything.

LAst night we were in street food place at 11pm and guy in car parked next to us at an angle, on corner, facing wrong way, on street, in scooter lane, got out and ordered meal and sat down and casually ate it. STYLE.

On most roads there is an official scooter lane but thats mainly used for double parking cars.

Why arent all Taiwanese very fat?

I have been pondering this for a while. By rights all Taiwanese should be very overweight. People eat all the time here. I mean all the time.

On most streets every second shop is a cafe / food shop or on many streets every shop is a food shop. The food is usually very cheap about NT$ 80 or NT$100 for a meal. NT$25=au$1. We seem to go out for breakfast ( no one cooks at home) then jump on scooter and look for a place top have another drink, then jump on scooter and look for a lunch place then on scooter and look at a few shops then on scooter and off for a snack - then on scooter and off for a meal then back home to wait for casey to come home from work at 10 pm then on scooters then off to eat a big meal before more shopping then home at 12 am. Normal sort of schedule here. 10 pm there are still hundered of people out in the streets eating.

BUT - no one walks anywhere - not even half a block . Its like rural Australia if you cant drive your car up to the shop on the next block you dont go. except here its scooters and a scooter can go anywhere - even IN the cafe if no park on footpath.

So combined with eating all the time and scooting everywhere ( or taxi if no scooter) all Taiwanese should be overweight. But you hardly see any obese people here - only seen one or two.

Back in old Kaohsiung again

Train trip back from Hualien was good in that it provided a pretty good glimpse of a lot of countryside on that side of the island. Mountains on one side and sea on the other with rice fields and villages and other fields squeezed in between. Saw my first few cows and goats in paddocks. That side of the island is a bit like the Great Ocean Road.

Signed a petition for World Peace at Taitung rail station one a short break while changing trains. [I know you will laugh at me signing a pettiton especially for world peace but I was relaxed and on holiday mood - caught in a vunerable moment - plus I fugured no one I know would see me in front of a petition for world peace at the rail station in Taitung ] Lady with petition had been to Sydney for Olympic games as a dancer with Taiwan team ( I think).

Went around Kaohsiung on back of scooter today. We managed to avoid getting squished by a bus or a HUGE HINO truck. Casey is good at going for miles down shortcuts - mainly the wrong way down one way streets. Some of the one way streets had more scooters going the wrong way than taxis and cars going the right way.

We went to lunch with casey's mother at a fanatastic restaurant in Fanshong. Its on a train theme and is done up like an old train station with lots of trianspotters nostalgia and sort of a mini train / rail museum - completes with music of the era [which is a combination of Taiwanese singing a style of USA crooner and pop and big band style stuff] - sounded great. It was all very well done and the food was delightful - possibly the best yet although thats a hard call.

There seems to be a bit of a nostalgia push on here at the moment - anything 50's goes down well with the older people [ like me] and a retro style is popular with the younger hip set.

The railways had re-introduced the old style lunch boxes to recapture the positve feelings people had about it. Very good food it is too. A chain of 7 - 11 type stores have also introduced the old style food lunch train box as well.
New shops opening up with a 50s theme on clothes and the hottest thing is to own an old retro Italian scooter. Caseys friend Jewel today had a bright red retro original Vespa - very high status!

I think Bridget and Casey want to go out to the films tonight and see The Passion of Christ. I'm a bit worried the film is spoken in Aramic (?) and the subtitles will be in Chinese characters - still it will be a visual experience I guess.

Things that make you realise you are not at home

Squat Toilets
Putting used toilet paper in a bin not in toilet bowl
Scooters everywhere
Roller door / Shutters where a shop was last night
Realising the shop doesnt open until at least 10 am
People wearing face masks everywhere
Scooters running red lights
scooters going wrong way up one way street
scooters on footpath
scooter in shop
scooter burbling down lane barely wide enough to walk through
scooters everywhere always

Things that make you go aaah thats familiar

Just like home - Falun dafa / Falun Gong handing out pamphlets on street corners.
Guys in internet cafe - 4 floors x 200 computers a floor playing Quake etc.
Homeless guy No1, wrapped up in blanket laying on street with two long thick bits of cardboard shoved up each nostril.
Homeless guy No2, wrapped up in blanket laying on street with elaborate wire self constructed aerial / helmet

Talking and geeking around with Prof Chen in Japanese cafe at lunch time - he whips out PDA to show me how he can access a patient's progress in hospital from PDA, then he shows me his new bluetooth earphone mic, 2 X mobile phones he carries at all times then reaches into briefcase and pulls out new sub notebook and hooks up to net wireless and video cam on notebook showing me how he VPN into webby EHR at hospital and can video conference from laptop in cafe. He also has a screen in car with web access and GPS map of city etc and car prgress through streets plus when backing into a parking space the screen uses a video cam at back of car to show other cars etc. aaaahhhh how wonderful

Taipei - 2

After being hit (lightly) on the head by a lady waving a KMT flag yesterday I am now an expert on all things political in Taiwan. - Well the word on the street / lane or alleyway is that the KMT was busing in the demonstrators last week and paying them NT$1000 each. Busing in seems fairly normal to me - dont know about the NT$1000. I spoke to a guy who works just around the corenr from the demo and he said they were also giving out free lunchboxes (normal working day meal) at mealtimes - he knows because he was going up there each lunch time last week and getting a free meal even though hes a pan green supporter. He reckons that we could go up and even though we were foreigners still get a free lunch - he was a bit cynical about it and said as long as we could say "recount" there would be no problem.

I was told today that Taiwan and au-day-lia had a lot in common as we both had prisoners being shipped over to an island and then the prisoners managed to take over from the original inhabitants.

Still no sun sighted

Taipei

Arrived yesterday at about 3pm. Still no sunshine since leaving oz. This area seems to be the land of fog and mist. Great train trip up from Kaohsiung saw a bit of countryside and no sun. The temperature here is a few degrees cooler than KA - running about 19C - check weather link way down bottom at start. Fay and Bridget were tired last night so after we had a quick look around I went out by myself. I walked up the road to the Peace Park and then around the corner near to the presidential Buildings where there are still a few demonstrators - about 10 waving flags very peacefully although one hit me on the head with a waving flag and long pole. One of the flag waving ladies was happily chatting to a policeman whose job seemed to be to keep and eye on them.

I walked around a bit further and had to step around a big pile of steel frames holding barbed wire mesh just piled up from last week on the footpath and presumably ready for any others demos. There were also rolls of razor wire rolled up on the footpath I had to walk around. Looks like they hadnt been cleaned up properly from last week.

One of the buildings across the road had sprayed on the fence in front CHEATER PRESIDENT still visible. A bit further and the presidential building ( administrative I think) had soldiers guarding the entrances, water canon trucks at each gate, spikes in all driveways, and rolls of barbed wire behind low fences. In addition there are these specially constructed trailers with covers holding rolls on barbed wire ready to be rolled out. There was one or tow of these in each gateway and about 10 in the carpark opposite alongside big army trucks. Every thing else is pretty clam with normal looking commuters walking past all this on the way home from work.

The newspapers here and in Hong Kong (well the only ones I can read in english) have had a lot of editorials and opinion pieces by worthies on democracy and the dangers of moving too fast and creating disorder by democracy. In my judgement (seeing after 5 days I am now an expert on all things Hong Kong, Taiwanese and chinese) the events in Taiwan ( Taipei) will have more effect on the democracy and mainland influence in HK. You might get some of this in the South China Morning Post and Taipei Times online

During all this I came across a group of young girls practicing dance steps in a sort of music bowl with seating in front in Peace Park. I sat down for a while to rest. They seemed to be doing a dance somewhere between funk and traditional because they were pickingup umbrellas at one stage and twirling them. Funny how girls of that age 10 12? all over the world love doing the same kind of group dances together.

Despite all the differences sometimes it feels just all so normal. I went into NOVA a big collection of electrical good outlets, cameras, computers, mobiles. I had to get a charger for my Siemens mobile. So I had a look around at computers and its a very familiar feeling geeking around looking at computer specs and prices.

We went to the National Palace Museum today - very impressive - unfortunately about 3/4 of it is closed for repairs.

Strange Musical Bits
Tonight in a small street sock and undies shop we heard Brian Kennedy being played on radio.

Tainan

Tainan was once the old capital of Taiwan and it is also full of many well preserved temples. We took the train up from Kaohsiung and it only takes about an hour. A very different feel to Tainan - it feels like a small arty city. We visited a great little lane opposiste the Confucian temple and there was a community art Gallery and the resident Artist / Gallery person spoke english and he explained the exhibition to us - it was on the theme of Confucianism. Very much like any small gallery off Brunswick St both in location and physical feel and also in the artworks hanging. While haveing a coffee on the lane the grabage truck came through with loudspeakers blaring giving english lessons!(with obligatory USA accent) Most Taiwan garbage trucks have a little tune on loudspeakers something like a music box tune.

Seems a very friendly place. One guy showed us around a temple for 30 minutes he was just a tourist himself and spoke no english- didnt stop him talking and explaining non stop. Luckily Bridget could pick up a few words here and there.

Music surprise:
Tom Waits on radio in a small food cafe ona laid back kind of jazz radio station playing Taiwanese jazz ( I think). Biggest surprise - small bubble cup type street stall - music - instrumental version of CARRICKFERGUS! - couldnt recognise it at first - sounded very chinese.

Highlight:
Guy in workshop that makes traditinal hangings and weavings for temples told me I looked like James Bond - he was jumpimg around shop shooting and laughing and had to write on a bit of paper - 007.

Kaohsiung

Just arrived yesterday but already we have managed to do a lot. Went to night markets near here last night. The Kaohsiung night markets have a real different feel to the Honk Kong markets we were at over the last few days. Here they are much less serious and commercial and a lot more fun and family orientated. there are a lot of fun games stalls and fluffy animals as well as a few stalls selling snake soups and quite a lot selling frogs and frog dishes. bloody big frogs too.

haven't seen a glimpse of the sun or clouds in sky since we left melbourne. Hong Kong was foggy and raining all the time we were there and Kaohsiung seems to be very polluted ( or extremely dry and foggy)

We are off tomorrow to see Tainan and then on a big train trip right around the island stopping for a few days in Taipei and also down the coast at the Toroka Gorge.

I'm enjoying the food better here already than HK as there is less emphasis on sea food. In HK it seemed the whole island lived on seafood- I even had seafood stuff in a beef dish once.

I've found a coffee shop a few blocks from Bridgets flat. SAIGON COFFEE knows how to make real coffee and also sells great Vietnamese food.
There are scooters every where here. On the road, on the footpath, on the parks, in hallways, in foyers, in shops anywhere you can park or ride one.
Taiwan runs on scooters. No one walks anywhere. A trip one small black away is taken by scooter. Two shops up - go by scooter.

Last night we went to the big huge D$llar supermarket - more a mix between harvey normal, K mart, Target and a super market. I had to get a helmet for the scooter. I got a half face one mid to top of range for NT$200 = ~au$8. Mind you it feels about as solid as an eggshell. All plastic. I've seen italian terrazo pavers in melbourne with more robust handkerchiefs tied on their head.

It compulsory to wear a helmet on a scooter - unless you are a kid. So whole families will be on one scooter. With dad with helmet and kids with none!!

The road rules here -if there are any - seem to be optional - especially if you are on a scooter. Red lights are only a mild suggestion there might be a point in being slightly more careful.

Dodgey keyboard here at local net cafe .

More later. Back on scooter to go back 5 blocks home

A few Hong Kong Notes

Just a few notes from a cafe at The Peak in HK. Had a reasonable coffee here at PACIFIC COFFEE. I asked for double strength and it nearly came up to a weak Melbourne Coffee. The music playing is that Blue Note CD from a few years back with hip hop and jazz - sounds like home. I'll have to keep trying - so far its the best coffee i've had here. Not that I can only drink coffee but in the morning it is vital to get started. Had crappy coffees all over town so far. Includes Maccas

We came up here to the PEAK to see the sights. Bob Savige kindly booked us a HARD TO GET and MUCH sort after outside table few days ago. He insisted we come up here for a romantic diunner and see the spectacular sights from up here. We arrived about 6 pm nice and early - firstly we couldnt find a way to get outside the tourist trap towers. Then when we finally did find an exit! - Its been raining and foggy here for the last 2 days. We havent been able to see any distance at all around the city. Then we arrive here and finally found the PEAK CAFE amidst the fog - it wasnt easy. Visability is so low we couldnt see the top of the TOWER from the door of the PEAK Cafe - and thats only about 20 yards straight UP from the door. Seriously the visabilty is down to about 50 yards anywhere at best so no night lights or romantic evening harbour / city views. We managed to cadge an indoor table although they were all booked out for indoor tables. When we left there was 5 people dining outside - shivering under a umbrella and one of those gas heaters. We could hardly see the balcony rail from inside the cafe.

More stories and spelling fix up s later when I get more net access.
To come:

Was that O'Leary or Bin Laden? - My bag gets snaffled at Tulla - my emabrrasment in front of 3 dreadlocked brothers from NZ as customs guy says * these your knives*

Horror on finding out hotel rates to rise for 3 days we are here. Absolute shock and horror to find out its because thousands of idiots from OZ, NZ and England are in town for RUGBY!

I been playing spot the aussie - brit etc - I think I have my stereo types and cliches down pat now.

My observations about travel attire

and more

Your table sir

Bob has booked an outdoor table for two at 7 pm on Friday night at the Peak Lookout Cafe at The Peak Hong Kong. Supposed to be a great dining experience. The table will only be held for 10 minutes. Talk about a relaxing start. I'll refrain from thanks until the meal is over

Work / Health Service Visits

Thanks to Teng Liaw I will be visiting A/ Professor Heng-Shuen Chen at National Taiwan University Hospital Dept. of Medical Informatics & Dept. of Family Medicine. Dr Chen has also kindly given me contacts at Kaohsiung Medical University

Politics

The recent Presidential elections have added to the excitement. Before this we only had SARS, Chook Flu and 496 ballistic missiles pointed at Taiwan to worry about. Now we have riots in our destination and main base for 3 weeks Kaohsiung.

TAIPEI TIMES

International Community Radio Taipei English Language Radio you can listen on the net The station was formerly the Armed Forces Network Taiwan (AFNT). When the United States announced termination of official diplomatic relations with the R.O.C. in 1978 the station the ICRT officially began broadcasting at midnight on April 16, 1979. Main aim is to bridge gap with expats and locals. Audience share is 5% expats and 95% local.

Festivals around Kaohsiung

I looked up the Cultural -> Festivals menu on the Kaohsiung website and I find that the main festivals for April are the Tomb Sweeping Day when people venerate their ancestors and sweep their tombs and Breeding season of monkeys on Mt.Chaishan. Now the Tomb Sweeping Day I can see as perhaps an interesting cultural insight. I 'm a bit less enthusiatic about the monkeys and their breeding.

Fame by Proximity or Linking

After I found myself bookended between the new books of Carmel Bird and Kate Lance, see links below, I started to think about fame by proximity. It used to be fame by photo with a famous personage. Every Chinese restaurant in Box Hill has a photo of the owner with Jackie Chan. So in an attempt to up my proximity points I decided to link to about the only blog I read with some regularity John Quiggin

Books for The Trip

Went up to Library today to get a few books to read on the trip. I was mainly looking for Henning Mankell , but they were all out on loan or reserved. Then I realised that at least 3 of them are in my library basket to return. Went up to the Merchant Of Fairness the local second hand bookshop.

Martin, Sally and Michael in the Merchant all said they knew they had NO Henning Mankell. I wondered how they knew. It seems as if they had someone in yesterday asking. Had a brief grump and disagreement with them about the readability of Harry Potter books and quality of HP movies then left. (You can guess my views on the hype and tripe of HP).

I went over to the new bookshop (not a new book shop - a shop for new books) and bumped into Damian and then Janet. Janet came back home for a cup of coffee. She kindly supplied some expensive Yo-Yo biscuits from that expensive cake shop near the bookshop. Janet lived in HK for about a year about 2 years ago, so we got out the HK map and started scribbling stuff to do and go to and such while we listened to the new Mary Coughlan CD she bought along - signed too.

I was looking for books I could read and then leave for Bridget to read. Bridget had complained about the lack of feminist, political books in english available in Kaohsiung! So I tried to look for some feminist, melbourne, political books.

I noticed the book by Kate Lance about the pearling boat called Redhill or something. I remember her telling me about it a year ago. I havent got a link for her book site yet and I'm ashamed to say I havent bought the book yet. This is a paper Kate wrote. Then I noticed Carmel Bird's new book Cape Grimm on the other shelf. I somehow felt a bit famous myself standing there between two books by people I knew. I stood for a while willing some of the fame to rub off. I had best go back and buy those two books if I want anything to rub off.

A list of books I bought to give to Bridget (and I'll read them on the trip)
Quarterly Essay - Made in England the David Malouf essay
Growth Fetish by Clive Hamilton
The History Wars - Stuart Macintyre & Anna Clark

Found a reference on web to Kate's book Reconstructing Redbill:From Pearls to Peace

Weather

I have been using these sites to check the weather.
Kaohsiung [Taiwan] Weather
Hong Kong weather
These sites look a lot more informative than what I'm used to but thats probably because I use the text site to check Melbourne weather.

Pre blog

Starting blog to try to record trip to Taiwan.
Spoke to Bridget on the phone today and shes worried that she hasn't got a computer set up and connected to the net while I'm there so I'll have to use the local net cafe. I hope all the terminals at the netcafe are not in chinese characters only or I will be very confused.

She is getting a loan of a motorbike / scooter for the stay so I can ride around - even though I don't have a motor bike license and haven't ridden one for at least 10 years. Its not working so I have to pay for repairs - but it will be cheaper than hiring one.

A humourous (but accurate according to Bridget) description of Taiwan traffic and scooters and rules. Another bit about the ubiquitousness of scooters in Taiwan here.